Tips and Tricks
Things to Purchase:
Crate
Bowls
Food (avoid chicken)
Toys (avoid rawhide, be cautious of plastic toys that can be chewed and swallowed.
Washable crate pads
Things to Purchase:
Crate-- Minis need medium size for adequate room.
Crate Cover-- This will be helpful during training, it will allow for the pup to know when they are in trouble or not. By leaving it uncovered when the pup is not in trouble and then putting the cover down over the crate when you are punishing pup each time, will help pup learn. They are pack animals and enjoy being around their families, so by isolating them for punishment this will help prevent unwanted actions.
Bowls-- One for food and one for water. We have found the stainless steel do not break, plastics can leech toxins into their food/ water so be cautious of it as well.
Bed-- I suggest one with a washable cover. Accidents happen and being able to unzip it and throw it in the wash is VERY helpful. We ordered ours from Chewy.com
Food-- AVOID Chicken; We use Wholesomes Sensitive Skin and Stomach brand.
We alternate between:
Salmon (Blue Bag)
​
Lamb (Purple Bag).
Toys-- AVOID rawhide, be cautious of plastic toys that can be chewed and ingested.
Treats-- There are many natural animal chews that you can get for your pup. We found ours enjoy ears, antlers, anything of meat flavor (NOT CHICKEN) or preferred an actual bone or part of an animal. There are many different homemade treats that are also great for dogs. You can take your own fruit and vegetables and blend, freeze in ice cube trays and have an all natural product.
Washable Crate Pads-- They make all sizes and brands. This is best to put in the kennel while potty training. Found many different places
Leash-- My favorite are the ones with carabineers that can be easily hooked to collar.
"Pack Leashes" Brand
Collar-- There are thousands to choose from. Be aware that collars with the ID Tag can get caught in your floor vent and dogs have had serious injuries or passed away from these. This doesn't happen often, but something to be wary of. There are collars that have the ID info stitched into them, which are preferred in my opinion because they are much harder to lose than a tag.
ID Tags-- They do make non-dangling ID tags. They are called "Road iD Tags"
Brush-- Slicker Brush to help fluff fur and keep knots out. Self Cleaning is preferred as well.
Toothbrush-- They make sets for puppies, and adults. Regular dental hygiene will keep your pups teeth healthy, which will in turn decrease vet visits as an adult for teeth problems.
"Tropiclean Fresh Breath" is my favorite
The Missing Link (Puppy)-- A supplement which helps provide nutrients their food is lacking. We use the Hip and Joint formula, they have Skin and Coat as well. They also have Puppy, Adult and Senior. Make sure you order the one for DOGS, for they also offer it for many animals.
Fleas and Ticks-- We wait for as long as possible to use any kind of preventative. There are many different chemicals in them and they can actually be harmful to your pet. We always go for one that is safe for pregnant and lactating dogs because they seem to have the least amount of chemicals in them.
Places to Purchase:
Rural King in Morganton has great prices
Petsmart and Tractor Supply are price match guarantee
Chewy.com does 20% off of 1st order. They have the food we use as well.
Amazon carries everything as well, just some items are a bit pricier, especially dog food.
OPTIONAL:
Baby Gates-- to block areas off which you would not like puppy to go.
Noise options
Radio -- put it on country or something soothing
Wall clock-- the ticking helps the pup to not feel alone
Heartbeat stuffed animal-- sounds like siblings heartbeats and pup doesn't feel alone.
Blanket for couch, bed or chairs-- By providing a blanket it will tell the dog that is their spot and keep your couch cleaner in return. Ours will not get on the couch if there is not a blanket on it now. They make big oversized blankets specifically for pets to help ensure your furniture does not get ruined.
"Waterproof and Washable"
Pet car seat-- This will help ensure the animal is properly secured in the vehicle
Back Seat Cover-- This will help keep your car from those unwanted scratches or accidents.
Nail Grinder-- We absolutely love our low volume, low vibration nail grinder.
"Whisper Quiet Nail Grinder"
Sharp Scissors-- A pair of scissors dedicated to cutting mats out and trimming eyes. They do make scissors that do not have a point on the end brand name
"ScardeyCut"
Spot Vacuum-- Always handy to clean up any accidents.
Washing Gloves-- "Hands On" brand has a wonderful grooming glove that helps to massage all the dirt and debris out of your pup's fur.
Deodorizing Spray-- We love to use "Tropiclean" Brand spray. Papaya Mist is our Favorite Scent. They have many wonderful ones to choose from.
Shampoo-- We love to use 4Legger Organic Shampoo for our puppies, they have a variety of scents and all good ingredients to not dry your pup out or have allergic reactions. Tropiclean has a wonderful whitening shampoo for those pets with white or blonde fur. Just be careful with whitening shampoos because they dry out the skin. So do not use a whitening shampoo for every bath, just as a touch up.
Tropiclean
4 Legger
Paw Cleaner-- You fill it up with water and then put your dogs feet in individually and wash them, then dry with a pet towel. We have the "Paw Plunger" brand
Pet Towel-- We love a very absorbent Microfiber. Norwex sells a dog towel that is amazing at absorbing water.
**Don't forget to register the microchip** www.buddyid.com Click Register Now and follow prompts
FEEDING:
Choose a time morning and evening to feed the puppy daily.
You can add water to the food for the first week or 2, I always put water in their food until about 10 weeks old.
Typically I feed between 8am-9am and 4pm-5pm. I ensure to feed at minimum 3 hours before they go to bed to ensure they can use the bathroom and have less accidents.
*until fully potty trained* I leave the water bowls full until about 2-3 hours before they go to bed, then dump out and use only ice cubes until bed. If I know I have to leave in the middle of the day I will take water bowls up after morning feeding, again to minimize accidents in the crate/ house.
IF YOU NOTICE DIARRHEA OR RUNNY POOP, CUT WATER INTAKE DOWN.
FEEDING GUIDE:
THIS IS A DAILY GUIDE, NOT EACH FEEDING GUIDE. DIVIDE THE AMOUNT BY 2 AND USE FOR EACH FEEDING.
WEIGHT
2-10 pounds
10-20 pounds
20-40 Pounds
AGE
FOOD
0-4 months
1/2 - 2 cups
2 - 2 1/3 cups
2 1/3 - 5 cups
4-8 months
1/3 - 1 1/2 cups
1 1/2 - 2 1/3 cups
2 1/3 - 3 2/3 cups
8-12 months
1/3 - 1 1/3 cups
1 1/3 - 2 cups
2 - 2 1/2 cups
TRANSITIONING FOODS: If you decide you would not like to stay on the same food we use, then please follow this guide over 2 weeks to be able to adequately transfer your dog over. If you do not follow this guideline, your pup could have diarrhea and stomach issues during the transition.
POTTY TRAINING
I do not recommend PEE-PADS. They teach the pup to use the bathroom in the house and it is a very hard habit to break. They are convenient for me when I have multiple puppies, but they are not helpful for potty training.
Choose a spot where you want the pup to go to the bathroom. Take them here first thing when you get home and let them out so they know. PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE when pup uses the bathroom. Sound like they did the most amazing thing in the world and pet them all over.
Choose a word to associate with potty time. "Go Potty" or what word you deem appropriate for your pup. This will help them associate the outside time with using the bathroom and not playing. Eventually you will be able to say the word and your pup will understand what you're talking about.
We have found dogs tend to enjoy the routine and same places, so use the same door each time until trained and the pup will start going to that door and hopefully making noises. Pups in the past have been successful with a bell at the door and a doggy door.
When to take out:
-When pup wakes up
-Within 10 minutes of eating
-Again 30 minutes after eating
-Before pup is crated
*When home, set a timer for every 40 minutes to 1 1/2hours and let out* this time will change as pup gets closer to being trained.
Sometimes when you let the pup out they come right back in and pee. This could be because they want to go back outside and play, and know this action has that consequence or they weren't outside long enough. Sometimes we have to let our puppies out, back in and in less than 5 minutes back out again to ensure they get their needs situated.
You can also set up a small puppy pin outside in a place where you can watch, and put pup in this area to use the bathroom. You can also feed puppy in this area so they understand this is where they eat and go. Weather doesn't always permit for this so getting them used to going outside on a regular schedule is most wanted. Set a timer to see how long after your dog eats, they have a bowl movement. This will help for you to know how often to let them out.
TOYS/ TREATS
I AVOID rawhide, rope toys, and anything easily torn up/destroyed. The pup can ingest the material causing digestive issues, rawhides have caused many serious and sometimes fatal issues in dogs. We have purchased the super chewer box and our pups chewed through their hard plastic toys within a couple hours and then ingested plastic, causing diarrhea and bloody stool.
We have found that the best and longest lasting chew toys are Antlers. They can be purchased in pet stores, or find a hunter that has no use for them. We also use beef bones, but only thick knuckles and bones that cannot splinter.
Natural Dog food stores also exist and they have many different options to choose from!
FOOD
We AVOID CHICKEN, GRAIN FREE, LEGUMES AND "BY PRODUCTS".
You can add fruits and vegetables into your pups food to make it healthier. Our absolutely love sweet potatoes, carrots (cut up), watermelon, pumpkins, blueberries and strawberries. They make a great and healthy treat for them as well.
We use Wholesomes Sensitive Skin and Stomach and we alternate between the two flavors listed on the first page. Salmon and Lamb
POISIONOUS FOODS TO DOGS
Garlic -- damages red blood cells
Avocado-- vomiting and diarrhea
Yeast-- (unbaked bread dough) alcohol poison
Chocolate -- can cause cardiac arrhythmias and central nervous system disfunction.
Rhubarb-- kidney failure
Citrus Oil-- liver failure
Macadamia Nuts-- vomiting, weakness, hyperthermia, loss of bodily functions
Cat Food-- long term feeding can cause pancreatitis, organ damage and sudden death.
Grapes and raisins-- sudden kidney failure
Spinach-- kidney damage
Milk-- some are lactose intolerant
Xylitol--rapid insulin release can lead to sudden coma
Wild Mushrooms
Iron Supplements-- prenatal supplements as well
Silica Packets
Apple Sees-- the flesh and the apple's insides are not toxic
Tobacco-- especially cigarette butts
Black Walnuts-- regular walnuts are okay, the bark and wild nuts are ESPCIALLY TOXIC
Nutmeg--large quantities lead to rapid heart rate, hallucinations, seizures
Peaches-- (pits only) release cyanide, it would take several pits to become ill
Currants-- true currants are NOT toxic, many currants are "Zante currants" which are tiny raisins from Corinth Grapes which can cause kidney failure
Alcohol-- small amounts will not hurt, but still not good for consumption
Leeks
Mustard and seeds-- not lethal in small doses, but not good for consumption
Coffee-- caffeine is toxic to pups
Cherry Pits & Flesh
Onions
Tomatoes-- green, not fully ripe, stems and leaves are toxic to
Chives-- large amounts cause damage to red blood cells
Potatoes-- green, unripe, or sprouted
PUPPY PROOFING
Put rugs away or in an area inaccessible to the pup. You can put baby gates up to keep the pup out of certain areas as well. Ensure chemicals, detergents and other harmful substances are out of reach.
They love to chew on paper, plastic, clothes, shoes, socks, cords, strings, wood, furniture, kids toys, stuffed animals and anything they aren't supposed to. Make sure that the pup has enough toys and keep things out of sight that they aren't supposed to have access to. Tissues, toilet paper and paper towels are all things they enjoy chewing as well. Just be aware of your pup's surroundings and what they have access to.
The most dangerous things for pups to ingest are items that would require surgery to remove. Such as strings, rope toys, towels, blankets etc. If your pup chews on something like this, it is not the end of the world but you need to ensure they have regular bowl movements, if there is a blockage for too long the pup can have fatal injuries. Keep a close eye and your pup will let you know if they aren't feeling well.
Another thing to be careful of are chip bags. Dogs can stick their heads in and not get them back out causing them to suffocate.
Legos, marbles and anything small they could choke on also pose a hazard.
Treat Puppy Proofing as you would if you were bringing a baby home. Keep things picked up and away, then the pup will not be able to get to those items.
PUPPY BITING
Wrap the pups top lips around their teeth gently with your hand so they are biting their own lips. They will feel how bad it hurts biting themselves and in turn will not bite you as hard, or at all. If they yelp, you're doing it correctly.
We have also heard of people putting rice into a can or a container and shaking it to redirect their attention from biting or an unwanted behavior.
PUNISHING PUPPY
Do not "spank" or hit their hind quarters. They do not have hind quarters as we do so this can cause serious hip issues immediately or later in life.
When the puppy does an unwanted action Correct them by saying "NO" or "NO, NO" and then crate them with a blanket or sheet over top. The separation hurts them the most because they are pack animals and they want to be with the pack. This is where that crate cover from "Things to Purchase" comes in handy.
We have also heard of using a fly swatter. The noise combined with the action are very deterring. This does not hurt the dog, just shows them the action was unwanted. Repetition of this each time deters the pup for repeating.
CRATE TRAINING
THIS IS A MUST. If there is a natural disaster or some reason your pup cannot be with you, only those crate trained with house manners are allowed to stay in hotels and or the disaster relief area. Other dogs are sent to shelters or places until families can bring them home. Crate training only helps with all other training and we have found our dogs enjoy their crate, it is their safe place, and a comfort.
Your puppy is going to whine, this is normal. They may even sound as if they are dying, which is also normal. Ensure that you have any items away from the cage so they cannot chew on them, loose blankets are also easily destroyed in a cage.
If they are not in trouble, give them something to chew on in the meantime.
Practice makes perfect. We always suggest that you practice with your pup in the crate so they know that it is not punishment for them to be in it.
The easiest way to do this is to put them in the cage, say the same thing each time, and no attention when they are whining. Go outside of the room they are in, even physically outside your house and when you hear NO noise, go back into the room with their cage and say, "GOOD BOY" or "GOOD GIRL" with MUCH enthusiasm so they know this is the behavior you are wanting and expecting out of them. Practicing this over and over will reassure them and ease them into the crate.
We always tell our pups this phrase before we leave "Be good, we will be back". They know with this saying you always return and they are not forever stuck in the cage.
DO NOT give attention when they are making noise and whining, and howling or any type of sound.
Let them out ONLY when they are silent or barks are few and far between.
GROOMING
Trim eyes monthly
Use nail grinder mentioned above as needed to trip nails
Groom yourself, or take to a groomer approx. every 3 months.
Keep your pup brushed to keep knots out.
Use Shears (Scaredy Cut scissors) to trim knots and tangles.
Deodorizing spray to keep smelling fresh
Deodorizing wipes
RANDOM
Stinky Ear Wash--
Apple Cider Vinegar Method for Yeast in Ears *** WORKS VERY WELL***
​
*USE ORGANIC APPLE CIDER VINEGAR AND ONE WITH MOTHER IN IT.**
​
Also you can use the apple cider vinegar method for yeast infections in ears:
MAKE SURE TO do a spot test first, especially if this is the first time your dog’s body is exposed to vinegar. While rare, some dogs may have skin that is sensitive to the chemical in the apple cider vinegar.
First, mix the apple cider vinegar with some warm olive oil at a ratio of 50/50. We don’t use water because it may feed the yeast infection if it isn’t properly wiped out from the dog’s ear canal. Next, dip a cotton swab into the mixture and gently wipe the dog’s ear while paying close attention to the base. Be sure to use different cotton swabs per ear to prevent the infection from spreading.
Losing teeth- Your pup will teeth, as a child does, and lose teeth. This is normal and if you do find teeth, hold on to them for they are an awesome keepsake!
Sitting-- We always play the "sitting game". We do not give the puppies any attention (mainly picking them up) unless they are sitting. We always say "GOOD SIT" then pet them and pick them up. This repetition shows them that is the action you are looking for, and in return they will start to sit only for attention.
GREAT FACEBOOK VET GROUP TO JOIN:
Pet Vet Corner (Only Approved Veterinarians Comment)
WE HAVE PRODUCTS WE RECOMMEND ON OUR WEBSITE : WWW.MTNSPRINGDOODLESNC.COM
AMBER BURGIN
Phone Number: 828- 638 - 6969
Email: MTNSPRINGDOODLESNC@GMAIL.COM
Leash (my favorite are the ones with carabineers that can be easily hooked to collar) Pack Leashes (brand)
Collar (they make collars that have the ID info stitched into them)
ID Tags (www.pettags4less.com)
***Rural King in Morganton has great prices
Petsmart and Tractor Supply are price match guarantee.
OPTIONAL:
Baby Gates
Noise options
-Radio
-wall clock
-heartbeat stuffed animal
**Don't forget to register the microchip** www.buddyid.com Click Register Now and follow prompts
FEEDING:
Choose a time morning and evening to feed the puppy daily.
You can add water to the food for the first week or 2, I always put water in their food until about 10 weeks old.
*until fully potty trained* I leave the water bowls full until about 2-3 hours before they go to bed, then dump out and use only ice cubes until bed.
POTTY TRAINING
I do not recommend PEE-PADS. They teach the pup to use the bathroom in the house and it is a very hard habit to break. They are convenient for me when I have multiple puppies, but they are not helpful for potty training.
Choose a spot where you want the pup to go to the bathroom. Take them here first thing when you get home and let them out so they know. PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE when pup uses the bathroom. Sound like they did the most amazing thing in the world and pet them all over.
Choose a word to associate with potty time. "Go Potty" or what word you deem appropriate for your pup. This will help them associate the outside time with using the bathroom and not playing. Eventually you will be able to say the word and your pup will understand what you're talking about.
When to take out:
-When pup wakes up
- Within 10 minutes of eating
- Again 30 minutes after eating
-Before pup is crated
*When home, set a timer for every 1 1/2 hours and let out* this time will change as pup gets closer to being trained.
TOYS/ TREATS
I avoid rawhide, rope toys, and anything easily torn up/destroyed. The pup can ingest the material causing digestive issues, rawhides have caused many serious and sometimes fatal issues in dogs. We have purchased the super chewer box and our pups chewed through their hard plastic toys within a couple hours and then ingested plastic, causing diarrhea and bloody stool.
We have found that the best and longest lasting chew toys are Antlers. They can be purchased in pet stores, or find a hunter that has no use for them. We also use beef bones, but only thick knuckles and bones that cannot splinter.
FOOD
We AVOID CHICKEN, GRAIN FREE, LEGUMES AND "BY PRODUCTS".
You can add fruits and vegetables into your pups food to make it healthier. Our absolutely love sweet potatoes, carrots (cut up), watermelon, pumpkins, blueberries and strawberries. They make a great and healthy treat for them as well.
POISIONOUS FOODS TO DOGS
Garlic -- damages red blood cells
Avocado-- vomiting and diarrhea
Yeast-- (unbaked bread dough) alcohol poison
Chocolate -- can cause cardiac arrhythmias and central nervous system disfunction.
Rhubarb-- kidney failure
Citrus Oil-- liver failure
Macadamia Nuts-- vomiting, weakness, hyperthermia, loss of bodily functions
Cat Food-- long term feeding can cause pancreatitis, organ damage and sudden death.
Grapes and raisins-- sudden kidney failure
Spinach-- kidney damage
Milk-- some are lactose intolerant
Xylitol--rapid insulin release can lead to sudden coma
Wild Mushrooms
Iron Supplements-- prenatal supplements as well
Silica Packets
Apple Sees-- the flesh and the apple's insides are not toxic
Tobacco-- especially cigarette butts
Black Walnuts-- regular walnuts are okay, the bark and wild nuts are ESPCIALLY TOXIC
Nutmeg--large quantities lead to rapid heart rate, hallucinations, seizures
Peaches-- (pits only) release cyanide, it would take several pits to become ill
Currants-- true currants are NOT toxic, many currants are "Zante currants" which are tiny raisins from Corinth Grapes which can cause kidney failure
Alcohol-- small amounts will not hurt, but still not good for consumption
Leeks
Mustard and seeds-- not lethal in small doses, but not good for consumption
Coffee-- caffeine is toxic to pups
Cherry Pits & Flesh
Onions
Tomatoes-- green, not fully ripe, stems and leaves are toxic to
Chives-- large amounts cause damage to red blood cells
Potatoes-- green, unripe, or sprouted
PUPPY PROOFING
Put rugs away or in an area inaccessible to the pup. You can put baby gates up to keep the pup out of certain areas as well.
They love to chew on paper, plastic, clothes, shoes, socks, cords and anything they aren't supposed to. Make sure that the pup has enough toys and keep things out of sight that they aren't supposed to have access to. Tissues, toilet paper and paper towels are all things they enjoy chewing as well. Just be aware of your pup's surroundings and what they have access to.
PUPPY BITING
Wrap the pups top lips around their teeth gently with your hand so they are biting their own lips. They will feel how bad it hurts biting themselves and in turn will not bite you as hard, or at all.
We have also heard of people putting rice into a can or a container and shaking it to redirect their attention from biting or an unwanted behavior.
PUNISHING PUPPY
Do not "spank" or hit their hind quarters. They do not have hind quarters as we do so this can cause serious hip issues immediately or later in life.
When the puppy does an unwanted action Correct them by saying "NO" or "NO, NO" and then crate them with a blanket or sheet over top. The separation hurts them the most because they are pack animals and they want to be with the pack.
​
GREAT FACEBOOK VET GROUP TO JOIN:
Pet Vet Corner (Only Approved Veterinarians Comment)